Last Battlefield

Well it’s raining today here in Petersburg, so we’re taking the day off to relax.  Tomorrow we’re going to drive through North Carolina, and stay in a town called Dillon, South Carolina… no joke.

Yesterday we ventured over to another battlefield: the Petersburg Battlefield.  Petersburg was the last defining battle of the Civil War that ended the South and freed the slaves.  In the early summer of 1864, Ulsysses S. Grant had just completed his Overland Campaign where he suffered heavy losses at the Battle of the Wilderness (18,000), Battle of Spotsylvania Court House (18,000) and the Battle of Cold Harbor (13,000) – he was down 41% of his army, his total standing army was approximately 80,000.  He decided that since attacking Richmond directly was hopeless, he would cut its supply lines from Petersburg, to the south.  Over the next 9 1/2 months a series of failed sieges on the town culminated in 30 miles of front lines where trench warfare raged.  The systematic and unrelenting elimination of supply lines into Petersburg finally forced General Robert E. Lee to abandon the city of Richmond which essentially ended the Civil War.  After all the cannons had ceased and the smoke cleared, some 70,000 men had fallen.

The Petersburg Battlefield was a large one, extending southwest some 20 miles to the Five Forks Battlefield where the final skirmish for Richmond occurred.  Once again, a nice driving tour of the battlefield was offered but this one wasn’t as clearly marked once you left the Petersburg grounds. Of note on this tour was “The Crater” – on July 30, 1864 during the first siege of Petersburg at Elliott’s salient, Union troops exploded 8,000 pounds of gunpowder in a mine dug under the Confederate battery attempting to create a clearing through the defenses.  It was a total disaster. After blasting 273 confederates in to the air, dazed and confused Union soldiers ran into the crater where they were shot like fish in a barrel. The Union retreated after taking 4,000 casualties to the Confederates 1,500.

Typical artillery used during the Battle of Petersburg, in the background is Confederate Battery 5, captured June 15 1864

Called "The Dictator" this big boy could fire a 225 lb explosive shell over 2 miles

Confederate Battery 8

Confederate Battery 9 - these are reproductions of what the battery would have looked like with all the fortifications

This is a typial Union soldier's hut used during the winter of 1864/65

This is the mine shaft entrance to "The Crater". This shaft extended for 511 ft and more than 50 ft under the confederate battery.

Dylan swinging around like Tarzan on this huge vine branch near the crater

The Crater - this is what remains of the crater, when detonated it spanned 170 feet long by 80 wide by 30 feet deep

This is the White Oak road, where the Union cut off the communication lines to the Confederate at Five Forks Battlefield, sealing the Confederates fate.

Historic Colonial Tours

The last two days have been spent in the area known as the Historic Triangle of Virginia – consisting of Jamestown, Williamsburg & Yorktown.  All three locations have historical significance in the colonial era of the United States and we visited two of them.

Yesterday we went to explore the remains of Jamestown.  Back in 1607 three ships with 104 men & boys landed ashore to found a new colony for his majesty King James I, granted under the proprietorship of the Virginia Company.  They landed in what is now called Jamestown Island, strategically positioning the town to make fortifications against other European forces.  The colony had a shaky start as harsh cold winters, a severe drought and disease ran rampant in the first several years but with the help of the Native inhabitants they began to prosper. For 90 years the town existed but the colony’s government was moved to Williamsburg in 1699 and the town of Jamestown slowly faded into obscurity, all that remains today are its ruins.  Jamestown is now under the management of the National Park Service, they exhibit artifacts and offer a short film about the history of Jamestown in the visitor center.  A pleasant walk takes you around the ruined town with the restoration of James Fort and the Church with interpretive signs dotting the walkways with information.  All in all it was an interesting lesson once again in U.S. history.

Today we visited the Yorktown battlefield.  Staged here 228 years ago in 1781, was the final land battle of the American Revolutionary war with Britain.  In October of 1781 General George Washington and French General Comte de Rochambeau lay siege on the fortifications of Yorktown commanded by British General Lord Cornwallis.  In a series of assaults from October 6-17 they crushed the British defenses and forced them to surrender Yorktown. This battle could not have been won without the aid of the French navy and infantry. This battle essentially ended the Revolutionary War and 2 years later, the Treaty of Paris was signed. The battlefield is part of the National Park Service and has a great 14-mile driving tour around the battlefield –  as with the Fredericksburg & Spotsylvania battlefield tours, here too are places to park the car and walk around while taking in the history & the outdoors.

Tomorrow we are heading about 70 miles southwest of here to Petersburg, where we will spend a couple of days exploring, what else? … more battlefields!

JAMESTOWN, VA

Tercentennial Jamestown Monument - erected 1907

The main drag of Jamestown circa 1620s

Along the shoreline of Jamestown

The ruins of Jamestown - actually these are reproductions, the real ruins are buried 2-3 feet below, sealed in concrete to preserve them, the ruins you see are exact replicas

Killer ocean front property in the 1600s

Seems like our feathered friends are moving south at the same pace as us!

This is a cool old gnarly dead tree

Recreated James Fort

This is the old church built 1639, the entrance is original, there are foundations inside the church that date back to 1617

Captain John Smith - one of the founders of Jamestown. He was the first elected Governer of Virginia.

Pocahontas, daughter of Wahunsunacawh, Chief Powhatan, born 1595. She helped the settlers in the early years, converted to Christianity and married settler John Rolfe in 1614, then moved to England and died very young at the age of 21 in 1617.

Black Point on Jamestown Island

YORKTOWN, VA

Yorktown inner defenses, this is where the British attempted to defend Yorktown

This French cannon - nicknamed "The Fox" - was built in 1762 and could fire a cannonball a mile

Inscribed with "I send not the rays of the sun but the thunderbolts of Jupiter" the little mortar below Dylan was built in 1681 and was used in the siege of 1781

The inner defenses

These cannons are located at the French Battery - about half a mile from the inner defenses

On October 14th, the Allies took these British redoubts using stealth and bayonets only

Having a blast at Yorktown

Spotted this deer on the side of the road. Virginia's battlefields are overrun with deer!

Moore's House - on October 19, 1781, officers from both sides met at this home to negotiate the terms of surrender.

The spoils of war include 240+ pieces of artillery

The inscription of this mortar reads "Surrendered by the capitulation of Yorktown October 19, 1781"

This grave site contains some 50 unknown French soldiers that died during the siege of Yorktown

Civil War Battlefields

Over the last couple of days we have been visiting some of the bloodiest and deadliest battlefields of the American Civil War which are now preserved in 8400 acres of the Fredericksburg & Spotsylvania National Military Park. Here over 100,000 men from both the Union (North) and Confederate (South) fell in battle. Other areas like Gettysburg and Antietam were brutal battles but neither had as much combat and destruction as in these areas. Location played the critical role; situated halfway between Washington D.C. the capitol of the North and Richmond the capitol of the South this middle ground was a critical area to control.

The first battlefield we visited was Fredericksburg. On December 11th 1862, the Union army led by Ambrose E. Burnside crossed the Rappahannock river and started the assault on the town of Fredericksburg which was eventually taken. On December 13th, two assaults took place: one at Prospect Hill against the legendary “Stonewall” Jackson, so named because he was like a wall to the Union forces; and the second assault on Marye’s heights against the equally legendary Robert E. Lee. By the end of the day 8,000 Union soldiers lay dead or dying on the battlefield. The Union retreated back across the Rappahannock river. What remains at the battle site today are parts of the sunken road and the stone wall that repelled the Union soldiers as well as Marye’s heights where the cannons still sit. Fredericksburg cemetery is atop the heights where 15,000 Union soldiers lay of which 12,000 are unknown. The visitor center has a great 22 minute film explaining the details of the battle and the subsequent battles in the area. This was definitely an interesting visit. So interesting that we came back the next day.

The Battle of Chancellorsville took place between April 30th and My 6th of 1863. After the Fredericksburg debacle Abraham Lincoln replaced General Ambrose Burnside with General Joseph Hooker. Crossing the Rappahannock river northwest of Fredericksburg, Hooker took his ground at Chancellorsville, his army consisted of approximately 134,000 men. General Robert E. Lee moved in and took position outside Chancellorsville, his army consisted of less than half 60,000. On May 2nd General Stonewall Jackson saw a weakness in the right flank of Hooker and devised a plan to attack from the right. He marched 28,000 men 12 miles around to the right flank and defeated Hooker’s right flank led by the inept General Howard. Stonewall Jackson was shot accidentally by his own men the same evening, dying a week later of pneumonia. Over the next three days Robert E. Lee pressed on and pushed Hooker’s army back over the Rappahannock making this battle one of the greatest victories for Robert E. Lee.  Lee would take this victory and march North to Pennsylvania where he would be brutally defeated at Gettysburg, the turning point of the Civil War. The park offers a driving tour around the battlefield with stops along the way with interpretive signs. In most sites there are still signs of the battle, with trenches and earthworks.

Just northwest of Chancellorsville is the Wilderness Battlefield. After the defeat at Gettysburg, Robert E. Lee is on the defensive. The newly appointed Ulysses S. Grant as general-in-chief of the Union armies, marches relentlessly south east with General George G. Meade in his Overland Campaign and starts with the Battle of the Wilderness, May 5-6 1864. For 2 days the 2 armies sparred indecisively, with close to 30,000 casualties, more on the Union side. Tactically Robert E. Lee won, but strategically Grant was victorious as he marched on May 7th down to Spotsylvania Court House. This Battlefield also comprised of a driving tour where we could stop and walk around the important sites of the battle. The descriptions of this battle were chilling as most of the wounded either burned to death in the forests or were asphyxiated due the thick air from the gunfire and smoke of the fires. One sign stated that over 1,000 corpses were left on the battlefield for over 1 year until their remains were finally laid to rest, either in the forest or down at Fredericksburg National Cemetery.

Southeast of the Wilderness Battlefield is the Spotsylvania Court House Battlefield May 8-21 1864. On the night of May 7th-8th Grant and Lee’s armies raced for the vital intersection at Spotsylvania Court House that controlled the shortest route to Richmond. Lee arrived first, entrenched, and successfully withstood the Union assaults. For 2 weeks the Union and the Confederates staged a war of attrition and tens of thousands fell in one of the bloodiest hand-to-hand combats in the Civil War, nick-named the “Bloody Angle”. On the 21st of May, Grant abandoned the field and marched south towards Richmond. We drove the battlefield tour and stopped along the way, of note was the Bloody Angle. Here there are many monuments to the fallen in somber memorial to the many thousands of needless deaths.

All in all the Fredericksburg & Spotsylvania National Military Park was a fascinating piece of US history and our first taste of the Civil war battlefields.

Fredericksburg Battlefield, this is the original wall that repelled the Union soldiers in the battle Dec 11-13 1862, a decisive Confederate victory. 8000 Union soldiers fell over 2 days, only 1000 Confederates

This is the Innis house, it was right smack in the middle of the battle.

This is the interior of the Innis house, notice all the bullet holes!

Janet in front of the Innis house

Richard Kirkland memorial, he risked his life to help bring water to the enemy Union wounded during the battle.

This is atop Marye's heights, from this location the Confederates pommeled the Union soldiers below

Cannon poised to fire

Marye's heights

Looking down to the Innis house from Marye's heights

This is Willis Hill cemetery, the original posts are scarred with gunfire

Fredericksburg National Cemetery, 15,000 Union men are buried here. 12,000 are unknown

"The muffled drum's sad roll has beat, the soldier's last tattoo, No more on life's parade shall meet, that brave and fallen few" Theodore O'Hara poem - Bivouac of the Dead

Prospect Hill was one of the stages in the Fredericksburg Battle. Here the Confederates led by General Stonewall Jackson repelled the Federals led by General George Meade

Salem church was the location of a small battle consisting of 10,000 Confederates and 20,000 Union soldiers, the Confederates managed a victory and pushed the Federals back across the Rappahannock river

Grave site of an unknown soldier at the Chancellorsville Battlefield, one of the great victories for the Confederates. After this victory Robert E. Lee marched up to Pennsylvania and was defeated at Gettysburg.

This is a memorial monument for Thomas J. "Stonewall" Jackson, he was mortally wounded by his own men during the Chancellorsville Battle. Regarded as one of the greatest tacticians in US history and his death thought to be one of the reasons the South lost the war.

These are all that remain of the Chancellor home, this was the epicenter of the battle; 18,000 men fell on May 3 1863, 1 per second for 5 hours.

From this location, brilliant tactician "Stonewall" Jackson's surprise right flank attack on the Federals started the wave of victory at Chancellorsville for the Confederates on May 2 1863. Soon after this Jackson was accidentally shot by his own men.

From here (Hazel Grove), the confederates rolled in artillery and relentlessly fired at the Union soldiers across the way at Fairview field

From this position (Fairview field) the Union soldiers futiley attempted to repel the onslaught of the Confederates from Hazel Grove and the surrounding forests at Chancellorsville

This is a memorial monument placed in one of the deadliest battles of the civil war, the Battle of the Wilderness. Ulysses S. Grant vs. Robert E Lee. There was no clear victor but strategically Grant had the upper hand and marched towards Spotsylvania.

Road to the Chewning Farm, one of the strategic locations for the Confederate line during the Battle of the Wilderness

This monument is close to the "Bloody Angle" in the Battle of Spotsylvania, the most vicious hand-to-hand battle of the Civil war; 30,000 soldiers fell in and around this area in a 2 week span. A war of attrition, this battle would further cripple the armies of Robert E. Lee and place Grant in a position where he could continue marching to Richmond and on to the Battle of Petersburgh.

“No estate… is more pleasantly situated than this”

Yesterday was another beautiful day weather-wise, a perfect day to celebrate someone’s birthday – Dylan’s! We decided to drive out to Mount Vernon to check out George Washington’s estate which at one time spanned 8,000 acres and overlooks the Potomac River. He acquired the estate in 1754 and spent the next 45 years expanding his home to reflect his stately status. The Washington family lived on this property until 1858 when the estate and 200 acres surrounding it, were purchased by the Mount Vernon Ladies’ Association. We walked the expansive grounds and stepped back in time as we walked through his mansion – the interior of which, has been meticulously restored based on an inventory taken at the time of Washington’s death in 1799. Due to copyright protection, photographs of the interior were prohibited but walking past the very bedroom and 4-post bed staged as it was at the time of his death, gave us chills that photographs probably never would.

Washington served as America’s very first President – he was elected by unanimous Electoral College vote – and played a critical part in the revolutionary war as commander-in-chief of the armies as well as the formation of the United States and so, is very much revered (definitely not flawless, he owned some 300 slaves which he emancipated after his death) and is often referred to as the father of America. Mount Vernon, therefore, is maintained and operated year-round for all admirers to see and experience.

George Washington's Mt. Vernon estate, originally acquired by his great grandfather John in 1647

George Washington acquired the Mount Vernon estate in 1754, over the next 45 years he updated the small house in to the mansion you see today

This is the greenhouse in the upper gardens

Close up of the greenhouse

The treed pathways of Mt Vernon

This is the overseers house. The overseer was a slave who managed the effifiency of all other slaves. There were an alarming 300+ slaves working on Washington's estate

This is the salt house - was an expensive commodity back in the 1700s and was mostly used to preserve foods and keep them from spoiling.

South elevation of Mt. Vernon - this Piazza was originally built in 1777

This is the view of the Potomac river from the veranda

Sitting on the small stone wall overlooking the Potomac river on the Mt. Vernon estate.

This small gate leads down to the grazing fields

Sheep grazing in the lower fields

The stables of Mt. Vernon

One of Washington's carriages

George Washington's tomb

George's sarcophagus on right, Martha's on left

Slave Memorial that honors the slaves who lived and worked on Mt. Vernon - the surrounding land was used as the cemetery during Washington's era.

Monuments and Memorials

Yesterday we awoke to bright blue skies… yes! Finally! After 3 continuous days of rain we wondered if it would ever cease, and it did! So, we drove to the Franconia-Springfield station and rode the ‘blue’ line back into DC for some spectacular photo-ops!

It’s amazing how the weather can really impact your impression of a place – the dullish-looking buildings were now radiating brightly in the sun. It turned out to be a gorgeous day! The temperature reached a blistering 23 degrees; the sun beat down on us as we walked from one end of The Mall – Capitol Hill – to the other end approximately 2 miles away – the Lincoln Memorial – and then over to the White House and lastly, the Holocaust Memorial Museum.

D.C. is an awe-striking place to see and take in – it is a place where history has been made and where history is memorialized. Barack Obama was sworn in as the 44th President of US and the nation’s first African-American President, on the steps of the U.S. Capitol building. Standing on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial and overlooking the vast landscape – the reflection pool, the Washington monument, and the U.S. Capitol in the far distance – we imagined Martin Luther King Jr. in 1963 as he delivered his famous “I Have a Dream” speech to over 200,000 civil rights supporters before him.

All of these monument landmarks, including the memorials, are within walking distance but you need to start early and plan for the entire day if you want to see them all. Here’s what we captured during our walk…

The US Capitol building with the reflecting pool

Posing in front of the US Capitol

The giant cast iron dome is 288 ft high, this dome was completed in 1863

Janet beneath the giant Ulysses S. Grant memorial - Grant faces towards Lincoln, his civil wartime president, built in 1922

The National Gallery of Art... in the sun! This place is behemoth!

The Washington Monument - 555 ft tall, completed in 1884

Washington Monument was the tallest structure in the world until 5 years later when the Eiffel tower was completed

World War II Memorial situated between the Washington Memorial and the Lincoln Memorial

"They fought together as brothers-in-arms. They died together and now they sleep side by side. To them we have a solemn obligation." Admirial Chester W. Nimitz

The Lincoln Memorial with the massive reflecting pool (2029 ft)

The Lincoln Memorial, built in 1922

The Lincoln Memorial is a lot bigger than we had anticipated!

Abraham Lincoln the 16th President of the United States, the Great Emancipator

The Lincoln statue stands 19 ft tall, in a huge cavernous room!

This is the empty part of the memorial, off to the side, these massive columns are each 37 ft high

Us 2 standing at the entrance to the Lincoln Memorial looking out towards the Washington Memorial

From this very spot Martin Luther King Jr gave his "I Have a Dream" speech

Vietnam Veterans Memorial: 58,159 names of KIA or MIA soldiers

The iconic White House, built in 1800, John Adams was the first president to live in the white house. His famous quote is: "I pray Heaven to bestow the best blessings on this house and all that shall hereafter inhabit. May none but honest and wise men ever rule under this roof."

The front of the White House on 1600 Pennsylvania Ave